Monday, September 19, 2011

Underbodice Options

Okay, I put some pictures together and here are the four options. The book just says "double vertical darts" and I know what that means in everyday sewing talk, but the book is hardly complete so...


Option 1 - Letter of the Law - Two vertical fisheye darts in standard configuration. In this picture, I took the photo from my test piece and put a red X on x-tra dart.

Pro - This is all the book says. Con - All the shaping is down there below the bust.




Option 2 - Plus 1 - This leaves in the side dart, which would need to be adjusted.

Pro - Gives shaping above the bust and around under the arm. Con - The book doesn't mention it.




Option 3 - Parallel Darts - Convert the side and bottom dart of a standard bodice piece into to steep, parallel side darts, then add the "skirt" portion to the bottom of that. I'm probably not going to do this, so there's no picture.
Pro - Incorporates shaping from side dart. Con - Steep, as in not quite vertical darts.



Option 4 - Rules Lawyer - Saw this idea on a bustier patternmaking section of one of the big books and said, that is two vertical darts. Take the point of a large shoulder dart and use that to shape above the bust and use one fisheye dart below for that shaping and I bet I will like this one best. The sketch shows the overall bodice shape with the line marked where the actual top of the piece would go. The section with the dashed dart lines would not exist on the final piece but the darting below would provide shape. The drawing is just to illustrate the principle, thank you.

Pro - I bet this works pretty good. Con - If the underbodice fits, you must acquit.


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