Thursday, September 22, 2011
Part 2
As rumored, the voucher deal came back, so now I am signed up to plan part 2 of this hairbrained scheme.
Monday, September 19, 2011
Underbodice Options
Okay, I put some pictures together and here are the four options. The book just says "double vertical darts" and I know what that means in everyday sewing talk, but the book is hardly complete so...
Option 1 - Letter of the Law - Two vertical fisheye darts in standard configuration. In this picture, I took the photo from my test piece and put a red X on x-tra dart.
Pro - This is all the book says. Con - All the shaping is down there below the bust.
Option 2 - Plus 1 - This leaves in the side dart, which would need to be adjusted.
Pro - Gives shaping above the bust and around under the arm. Con - The book doesn't mention it.
Option 4 - Rules Lawyer - Saw this idea on a bustier patternmaking section of one of the big books and said, that is two vertical darts. Take the point of a large shoulder dart and use that to shape above the bust and use one fisheye dart below for that shaping and I bet I will like this one best. The sketch shows the overall bodice shape with the line marked where the actual top of the piece would go. The section with the dashed dart lines would not exist on the final piece but the darting below would provide shape. The drawing is just to illustrate the principle, thank you.
Pro - I bet this works pretty good. Con - If the underbodice fits, you must acquit.
Option 1 - Letter of the Law - Two vertical fisheye darts in standard configuration. In this picture, I took the photo from my test piece and put a red X on x-tra dart.
Pro - This is all the book says. Con - All the shaping is down there below the bust.
Option 2 - Plus 1 - This leaves in the side dart, which would need to be adjusted.
Pro - Gives shaping above the bust and around under the arm. Con - The book doesn't mention it.
Option 3 - Parallel Darts - Convert the side and bottom dart of a standard bodice piece into to steep, parallel side darts, then add the "skirt" portion to the bottom of that. I'm probably not going to do this, so there's no picture.
Pro - Incorporates shaping from side dart. Con - Steep, as in not quite vertical darts.
Option 4 - Rules Lawyer - Saw this idea on a bustier patternmaking section of one of the big books and said, that is two vertical darts. Take the point of a large shoulder dart and use that to shape above the bust and use one fisheye dart below for that shaping and I bet I will like this one best. The sketch shows the overall bodice shape with the line marked where the actual top of the piece would go. The section with the dashed dart lines would not exist on the final piece but the darting below would provide shape. The drawing is just to illustrate the principle, thank you.
Pro - I bet this works pretty good. Con - If the underbodice fits, you must acquit.
Just thinking
So I haven't had a chance to think about double vertical darts enough lately, but I am on the edge of having some ideas. I put the first test piece back on the form and moved it around, checking the changes in fit based on where I moved each dart, or rather where I moved them to point relative to the apex of the bust, where all darts theoretically go. The test pattern was flat drafted from the (a) book and the fabric on the dress form wasn't exactly located "by the numbers". Still, it was good enough to be used for educational purposes.
I went back to the pattern drafting books trying to find some theory on the messing around with of double fisheye darts. Maybe I dreamed it, but I could swear I saw a picture that held the key for a moment and no matter how many times I look, I can't find it again. The upside is I came up with at least two more options for double vertical darts that would cause a pattern piece to fit corsetishly. Pictures to follow of cheesy drawings to explain each one (there will be four) and then probably at least two will get drafted and made up for testing.
I went back to the pattern drafting books trying to find some theory on the messing around with of double fisheye darts. Maybe I dreamed it, but I could swear I saw a picture that held the key for a moment and no matter how many times I look, I can't find it again. The upside is I came up with at least two more options for double vertical darts that would cause a pattern piece to fit corsetishly. Pictures to follow of cheesy drawings to explain each one (there will be four) and then probably at least two will get drafted and made up for testing.
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